Making a Mouse Blush (Vegan Style)

This blog post offers a recipe and tutorial for a lightweight blendable and buildable blush with a semi-matte sheen.
Features of the recipe:
  • Vegan, uses Sunflower and Rice Bran Wax.
  • Includes our K-24 Lauryl Laurate to give a nice slip and silky after-feel
What you may learn from the recipe:
  • How much color is really required to make a color cosmetic
  • How much bulking powder is required to make a color cosmetic 
  • How to incorporate pure pigments into a recipe with the least amount of speckles.
Phase A
Ingredient % by weight Function
Sunflower Wax 6 Structure
Rice Bran Wax 5 Gelling
Polyester Castor Wax 6 Plasticizer
Lauryl Laurate 4.5 Emollient
Fractionated Coconut Oil 4.5 Emollient
 Melt the Phase A ingredients together and set to the side.
Phase B
Ingredient % by weight Function
Titanium Dioxide (oil dispersible) 7 Color
Red Iron Oxide (Red Shade) 0.25 Color
Ultramarine Pink 6 Color
Fractionated Coconut Oil 14.75 Dispersant & Emollient
Mix Phase B together, set to the side and allow the pigments to "slake" or fully absorb the oil.  It is very important that the Phase B ingredients are so fully wetted that they are creamy and without any speckles.  Here are three techniques to consider:
  • With everything in a bowl, use a strong spatula to smoosh the pigment grains in to the oil.  It may take a lot of smooshing.
  • Put everything into a small zip lock bag and rub vigourously between the palms of your hands. 
  • Use a spatula and muller and grind the pigment into the oil.  (Probably you won't do this, but its just an FYI.
Here is a little video showing the last technique, although they are making paint.
 After you have fully mixed the pigment into the oil.  You may want to swatch it along a piece of paper (called a Draw Down Test) to make sure you have no speckles.  Now is the time to get rid of all speckles of colors.  Don't cross your fingers and hope they will go away in the final the blend, they probably won't.
OK, now add the Phase B to the Phase A over gentle heat and stir.  Finally mix in Phase C over low heat. 
Phase C
Ingredient % by weight Function
Mica 26 Bulk
Lauryl Laurate 20 Emollient
Stir well and pour into containers at about 70C.  The resulting product is a little soft for a stick, but you can try it.
Here is the colors swatched.  You can see that, as a blush should, it has a certain amount of translucency.  Its not a heavy "one color".  One adds more as you build up the application.
Raw materials available at tkbtrading.com!
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